Tawaraya Ryokan
So you’ve watched the series Shogun, you saw samurais fighting to be the shogun, tatami mats, shoji screens, futons and you want to be exported to that world. Staying at Tawaraya in Kyoto just might fit the bill for a “Shogun” experience.
Tawaraya opened in 1709 during the Tokugawa shogunate when Kyoto was still the capital of Japan. It is one of the finest ryokans (traditional Japanese inns) in Japan, with a history dating back more than 300 years and run by the same family for 12 generations. It has a reputation for impeccable service.
Samurai, feudal lords and Tokugawa clan members have stayed at this inn. Famous guests’ names can be found in the guestbooks including Alfred Hitchcock, Steven Spielberg, and even Robert Oppenheimer. Hollywood stars such as Tom Hanks, Tom Cruise, Harrison Ford and Jodie Foster have stayed here.
At Tawaraya there are 18 rooms that are not grand by Western standards. But the moment you set foot inside you’ll be surrounded by peace, tranquility, and omotenashi (hospitality in Japanese).
Staying at Tawaraya
We stayed at Tawaraya in early May 2024, right after the Golden Week holiday, the Japanese holiday from late April to early May. It is in the middle of the bustling streets of Kyoto but it is surprisingly quiet and calm once you reach Tawaraya.
The staff greet you warmly upon arrival. Seasonal plants which are changed according to the season come to view as you enter.
Valuable byobu (folding screen), antiques and pieces of art adorn the hallways lit by lanterns.
The lounge rooms are comfortably set up for reading and lounging.
栄の間(Sakae no Ma)
Our room for the night was 栄の間 (Sakae no Ma) consisting of three tatami-mat rooms – a sitting area where your meal is served, a bedroom with a low bed with comfortable futons (you can request to have futons directly on the tatami mats in other rooms) and a smaller room set up with a cushion and desk. The rooms are simply decorated and serene. From the window you can view a beautiful private garden.
More artistic touches can be seen in the tokonoma (an alcove): a scroll, an incense urn and ikebana flower arrangement reflecting the season. All three items are changed according to the season.
As you are trying to take in the layout and aesthetics of the room, a cup of welcome green tea with sweets is served.
Everything is traditional and time seems to stand still here, but Wi-fi is available – something all travelers absolutely need!
The hot water in the hinoki (cypress) wooden bath is already filled for you to soak in anytime. Surprisingly, the hot water is just right throughout the night but depending on your preference, you can make it hotter by adding hot water. You can relax in the yukata (casual kimono) provided after your bath.
Kaiseki dinner
At dinner time a kimono-clad attendant (called nakai-san in Japanese) who takes care of you during your stay, comes to serve the kaiseki dinner (a multi-course meal) in the privacy of your room. Our attendant was very helpful.
The menu is mostly vegetarian with no meat and no fried food so it is light and healthy. Using seasonal ingredients, the taste, texture, appearance and colors were perfectly balanced. The meal was beautifully presented and delicious. It was also a very relaxing experience as you don’t have to worry about getting back to your hotel after the meal.
The kaiseki dinner is definitely the highlight of your stay at Tawaraya.
Options
With advance notice, Tawaraya can arrange a geiko (geisha in the Tokyo dialect) for entertainment with songs, dances and games while you dine.
Another option: if you are tired from a day of walking around Kyoto, you can request to have an acupressure massage performed in your room by a masseur. We opted to get the acupressure massage and it was heavenly!
Breakfast
In the morning at the appointed time, our attendant came to serve the Japanese-style breakfast we had requested. It is possible to request a Western-style breakfast if you prefer. The menu consisted of the Kyoto specialty yudofu (tofu heated in a savory umami-rich broth using kombu) and grilled tilefish, called amadai in Japanese, a premium fish often found in Kyoto cuisine. The breakfast was healthy and delicious.
Our attendant was ready to give us any assistance we needed and she saw us off when we were ready to checkout and leave.
How to get a reservation
Because of the weak yen (as of May 2024) there is a high demand for the 18 rooms from overseas guests. Therefore, it is very difficult to reserve a room. Compounding the difficulty, Tawaraya has no website or dedicated booking platform. You can only book by phone in Japanese (81 75-211-5566) or fax (81 75-211-2204) so you may need to find a friend who has a working knowledge of Japanese. You can check availability on sites like JAPANiCAN or TripAdvisor but you cannot book through them.
There seems to be an email that you can try (as of May 2024) but how long they will keep the email arrangement is hard to tell: info@the-tawaraya.jp
Another way is to go through the Japanese travel agency JTB – they have access to around 3 rooms, supposedly.
Tawaraya is usually fully booked during cherry blossom season (March-April) and fall foliage season (October-November) so you have a better chance by trying other months.
Tip: We were luck to get a reservation by calling Tawaraya directly and asking if they had any available rooms. Luckily they had a cancellation and we grabbed the room. Calling to inquire about availability due to cancellations is definitely worth a try.
Room rates
Rooms are priced according to size and occupancy and range from around ¥50,000 JPY to ¥150,000 JPY or more per night, per person, including dinner and breakfast. Prices may fluctuate.
The 栄の間(Sakae no Ma) in May 2024 on a weekday was ¥110,000 (plus tax and service charges) per person, dinner and breakfast included, double occupancy.
Checkin at 15:00 Checkout at 11:00
Highly recommended
The reservation process sounds overwhelming but this historic ryokan is a hidden gem and definitely worth the effort. Highly recommended if you want an unforgettable, tranquil experience in a traditional Japanese inn that will treat you like a shogun.
If you want a luxury hotel experience with spacious rooms, posh bathrooms with modern rain showerheads, lavish spa facilities, and convenient online reservations, Tawaraya is not for you. Kyoto has many luxury hotels such as the Ritz Carlton, Four Seasons and Park Hyatt so we recommend you try them instead.
At Tawaraya, they keep it simple, calm and zen-like and transport you to a bygone era with their exceptional omotenashi (hospitality). Good luck booking a room!
Access
278 Naka Hakusan-cho、Anegakoji Agaru, Fuya-cho Kyoto-shi, Nakagyo-ku, Kyoto 604-8094
京都府京都市中京区麩屋町姉小路上ル中白山町278
15 minutes by taxi from Kyoto station
English
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